The Perfect Kitsap Day Trip from Seattle (Ferry, Hikes, and Where to Eat After)

Here’s my pitch: you can leave downtown Seattle, spend six hours hiking and exploring on the Kitsap Peninsula, eat excellent food, maybe have a beer, and be back in the city before dinner. The whole thing costs less than parking at Pike Place for a day, and you get actual nature and small-town vibes instead of fighting crowds at tourist traps.

I’ve done this trip probably twenty times, both solo and with visiting friends who want to “see the real Pacific Northwest” without driving four hours to the mountains. I’ve refined the route through trial and error (emphasis on error—I once ended up in Bremerton by accident and had to completely reroute, which is a long story involving a wrong turn at the Agate Pass Bridge and my refusal to admit I was lost for like forty-five minutes). This is the version that actually works.

The secret sauce: timing the ferry right, picking one good hike instead of trying to see everything, and knowing where to eat after. Let’s break it down.

The Ferry Situation

The Seattle-Bainbridge ferry leaves from Pier 52 downtown. It’s a 35-minute crossing that costs $9.50 for walk-ons (one way—the return trip is free for pedestrians). If you’re bringing a car, you only pay westbound; the return is also free. Current pricing is on the Washington State Ferries website.

Here’s what nobody tells you: the ferry schedule matters a lot. Boats run roughly every hour, but the timing varies and there are gaps. Missing a ferry means waiting 30-60 minutes for the next one, which can torpedo your whole day.

My move: aim for a late morning ferry (9:30 or 10:30 departure). This gets you to Bainbridge with the whole day ahead of you, avoids the commuter rush, and sets you up for a solid 5-6 hour Kitsap adventure before you need to head back.

If you’re driving on, arrive at least 30 minutes before sailing time on weekends. Summer weekends can have wait times of 2+ hours during peak times. Walk-on passengers? You can show up 15 minutes before and be fine.

Pro tip: grab coffee before you board. There’s a cafe on the ferry but the line is long and the coffee is mediocre. I usually hit Storyville or Cherry Street on Pike Place and bring it on board. Worth the extra five minutes.

The Ferry Ride Itself

This sounds foolish, but: actually go outside on the ferry. Yes, even if it’s drizzling. The view of Seattle from the water is legitimately great, and watching the city skyline recede while you head toward the forested shoreline of Bainbridge is kind of the perfect introduction to the day.

I usually stand outside on the front deck for at least half the ride. On clear days you can see Mount Rainier to the south, the Olympics to the west, and the Cascades to the east. Even on gray days it’s worth it—there’s something very Pacific Northwest about standing in the mist watching seagulls follow the ferry.

People-watching inside is also excellent. You’ve got locals who do this commute daily reading newspapers, tourists taking approximately one million photos, and always at least one kid absolutely losing their mind with excitement about being on a boat.

Once You Land: The Decision Point

Okay, you’re on Bainbridge Island. You have options here. You can stay on the island and explore (Grand Forest, downtown Winslow, etc.) or you can drive north into deeper Kitsap. Both work, but they’re different vibes.

Staying on Bainbridge is the easier, more tourist-friendly option. Walk off the ferry into downtown Winslow, grab lunch, browse shops, maybe hit Grand Forest for a short hike. Very pleasant, very doable without a car.

But I usually drive to Poulsbo and North Kitsap. It’s a 20-minute drive from the Bainbridge ferry terminal to Poulsbo, and it gives you access to better hiking and more interesting small-town vibes. You need a car for this.

I’m going to focus on the Poulsbo route because that’s the trip I’ve actually perfected. But honestly, staying on Bainbridge is totally valid if you don’t want to drive or prefer to keep things simple.

The Drive to Poulsbo

From the Bainbridge terminal, take Highway 305 north. The drive is pretty—winding through forest, past the occasional farm, over the Agate Pass Bridge (don’t miss your turn like I did that one time). About 20 minutes later you’ll see signs for Poulsbo.

Don’t get confused by the highway business area of Poulsbo. You want historic downtown, which is right on Liberty Bay. Follow signs for “waterfront” or “downtown” and you’ll end up in the right place.

Park anywhere near Front Street. There’s free street parking and a few small lots. Weekends can be busy, but I’ve never had serious trouble finding a spot.

The Hiking Part

You’ve got choices here. My recommendation: pick ONE hike and actually do it well instead of trying to hit multiple trails and spending all your time driving.

Fish Park (Right in Poulsbo)

If you want easy and short (under an hour), Fish Park is perfect. It’s literally in Poulsbo, so no additional driving. The trails are flat, well-maintained, and go through wetlands where you can spot birds and salmon (in season). There’s a playground if you’re with kids. This is the “we want to say we hiked but also want to spend most of the day eating and drinking in Poulsbo” option. Which is completely valid.

Port Gamble Forest

If you want actual hiking (2-4 hours depending on route), drive 15 minutes north to Port Gamble Forest Heritage Park. Extensive trail system, pretty forest, actual elevation gain if you want it.

Fair warning: navigation can be tricky here. Download a map before you go. I’ve gotten turned around multiple times despite hiking this area regularly. Last October I was so confident I knew the Ridge Trail that I didn’t check my map and ended up on some logging road that definitely wasn’t on any trail system. Classic Rob moment.

The town of Port Gamble itself is worth a quick stop—it’s this weird preserved company town from the 1800s that looks like a movie set. Very Instagram-able. There’s also Butcher & Baker Provisions there, which has incredible sandwiches if you want to pack lunch for the trail.

Point No Point (Hansville)

If you want beach + lighthouse + short trail, drive 30 minutes to Point No Point in Hansville. The trail is only 1.5 miles, the beach is great, the lighthouse is photogenic, and the whole thing feels like the edge of the world.

This is my personal favorite if I’m showing someone from out of town “the real PNW.” It’s got all the elements: forest, beach, water views, mountains in the distance, and it’s uncrowded.

The downside: it’s the longest drive from Poulsbo, which eats into your day. But if you time it right and don’t linger too long, you can still make it back to Poulsbo for food and drinks before your return ferry.

Post-Hike: Food and Drinks in Poulsbo

This is where the day gets really good. Poulsbo has punched way above its weight class in terms of food and beer, and you’re going to be hungry after hiking.

Where to Eat

Tizley’s Europub is my go-to. Solid pub food, good beer selection, nice atmosphere. The fish and chips are excellent. They have a patio that’s great in good weather.

Mor Mor Bistro is fancier but worth it if you want something nicer than pub fare. Pacific Northwest ingredients, thoughtful preparation, good wine list. Make a reservation if it’s a weekend.

Sogno di Vino has good Italian food and wood-fired pizza. The patio overlooks the water. Very pleasant spot for a late lunch.

Sluys Poulsbo Bakery is an institution. Scandinavian pastries, cardamom bread, massive cinnamon rolls. There’s always a line out the door, but it moves fast. This is a good stop if you want a snack before your ferry back. I always get the lefse even though I don’t really know what lefse is. It’s good though.

Breweries

Poulsbo has an absurd number of breweries for a town its size. I’ve been to most of them. Here are the ones worth your time:

Valhöll Brewing has a Viking theme (because Poulsbo leans into its Norwegian heritage) and solid beer. The tasting room downtown is cozy.

Slippery Pig Brewery has been around since 2010 and knows what they’re doing. Consistent, well-made beer. The location on Front Street is convenient.

Western Red Brewing is a little off the main drag but worth finding. They’re ambitious with their beer styles and it pays off. The tasting room has cool old logging equipment as decor.

I usually do the hike, then hit one brewery for a pint while I’m still sweaty from the trail, then clean up a bit and get actual food somewhere. This timing works well and doesn’t feel rushed.

The Return Ferry

Here’s where timing gets important again. The last few ferries of the evening get crowded, and if you’re driving on, you might wait. Check the ferry schedule early in your day and pick a return sailing time.

My move: aim for a 6:00 or 7:00 pm ferry back to Seattle. This gives you the full afternoon in Kitsap without making the day feel rushed, and it’s usually not as slammed as the 8:00 or 9:00 pm boats.

Walk-on passengers don’t need to worry as much—you can basically show up 15 minutes before sailing and be fine. But if you’re in a car, give yourself a 30-minute buffer.

The return ferry ride is when I usually decompress and process the day. I’ll stand outside (if it’s not too cold) and watch the Seattle skyline get bigger as we approach. There’s something nice about returning to the city from a day in the woods and small towns. You get the best of both.

What This Day Actually Costs

Let’s be real about money:

Ferry for walk-ons is $9.50 total (you only pay westbound). Ferry with a car is around $20-30 depending on vehicle size, also one-way only. Gas for driving around Kitsap, maybe $10-15. Food ranges from $15-30 per person depending on where you eat. A pint at a brewery runs $6-8. Hiking is free.

So you’re looking at $50-80 per person for the whole day if you’re being reasonable. Less if you pack food. More if you go fancy at Mor Mor.

Compare that to spending the day in downtown Seattle paying for parking, tourist trap food, and museum admission, and this is way better value for a way better experience.

Alternative Routes (If You Want to Mix It Up)

I’ve described my standard route, but there are variations:

The Bainbridge-Only Day: Don’t drive north at all. Stay on Bainbridge, hike Grand Forest, explore Winslow, have lunch at Cafe Hitchcock, browse the art museum, take the ferry back. This is the low-key, no-car-needed option that still feels like an escape from Seattle.

The Bremerton Route: Take the Seattle-Bremerton ferry instead (about an hour crossing). It’s a longer ferry ride but it drops you in a different part of Kitsap. From Bremerton you can hit Illahee Preserve, check out the naval shipyard, and eat downtown before taking the ferry back. This is less touristy than the Bainbridge route.

The Ferry-and-Drive-Back Route: Take the ferry over to Bainbridge, drive through Kitsap exploring, then drive all the way around and back to Seattle via Tacoma and I-5. This turns it into a bigger adventure but also takes longer. Only do this if you have 8+ hours and want to really explore.

Mistakes I’ve Made (So You Don’t Have To)

Not checking ferry schedule ahead of time. I once assumed ferries ran every 30 minutes like they do during commute hours. They don’t. I missed my ideal ferry by five minutes and had to wait an hour for the next one. Check the schedule. Set alarms.

Trying to do too much. The first time I did this trip with visiting friends, I tried to hit Port Gamble Forest, Point No Point, AND Poulsbo downtown. We ended up rushed and stressed and spent more time driving than doing anything. Pick one main activity and actually enjoy it.

Not bringing layers. The ferry can be cold and windy even when it’s warm on land. I’ve been miserable standing outside on ferry rides because I was trying to tough it out in just a t-shirt. Bring a jacket.

Forgetting about parking in Poulsbo on summer weekends. It’s not terrible but it’s also not as easy as random Tuesday. Give yourself extra time.

Assuming I could wing the return ferry timing. Walking onto a 9 pm Friday ferry and finding it completely packed with drunk people coming back from Bainbridge Island bar crawls was… an experience. Go earlier if you can.

Why This Trip Works

The thing about this day trip is that it actually delivers on the “Pacific Northwest experience” without the usual tourist trap nonsense. You’re on a ferry surrounded by water and mountains. You’re hiking through actual PNW forest. You’re in a real small town that’s not trying to be Leavenworth 2.0.

Every time I’ve done this with visiting friends, they’ve said something like “this is what I imagined Seattle area would be like.” Which makes sense—it’s the good stuff without the urban stress.

And for Seattle folks who just need a break from the city without driving four hours, it’s perfect. Close enough to be doable on a whim, far enough to actually feel like an escape.

I do this trip probably once a month, sometimes solo, sometimes with friends. It never gets old. The ferry ride is meditative, the hiking clears my head, the beer tastes better after a day outside, and the return ferry back to the city always makes me appreciate that I live in a place where this is an easy Saturday.

Resources and Links

Before you go, bookmark these:

For ferry schedule and alerts, check the WSDOT website. AllTrails has detailed maps for most Kitsap trails with current conditions. Visit Kitsap has event calendars and seasonal info. My PNW hiking tips cover basics that apply to any trail. And Visit Poulsbo has updated dining info.

One Last Thing

I know this all sounds very planned out and specific, but the best version of this day trip is when you’re flexible. If you miss a ferry, whatever—grab a coffee and catch the next one. If the trail you wanted to hike is closed, pick a different one. If you end up spending three hours at a brewery instead of two, that’s fine too.

The structure I’ve laid out here is just so you don’t waste time figuring out logistics. But the actual day should feel relaxed and spontaneous, not like you’re trying to hit all the checkpoints on a list.

And if you see me on the trail or at a Poulsbo brewery—slightly sweaty, probably taking pictures of moss, definitely overthinking my beer choice—say hi. I’m always happy to talk about trails and timing and the best way to spend a Saturday escaping the city.

— Rob Kinsley